It’s a little hard to find a bright side to an earthquake, but I was impressed with the smile from a traffic cop just outside of L’Aquila on Tuesday morning.
“I’m wearing everything I have left,” she told me. “It’s a good thing I had my jacket in the car, or I wouldn’t even have this,” she said, tugging on sleeve of her blue police uniform.”
Why the smile? She and her extended family were all safe, and got out of their homes uninjured in the quake, a magnitude of 6.3 on the Richter Scale which was so strong it shook people out of their beds as far away as Rome and Bologna.
A day and a half after the biq quake, some people were still walking around like it was a very bad dream. Many of them were bandaged, having been hit by falling concrete or stones as the force of the tremor reduced so buildings to a dusty mess.
There were still lots of hugs. Some were embraces celebrating the gift of life: people simply glad to see other survivors. Others hugged to mourn their losses together.
Some people were just trying to get back into their homes, although few managed to do that, since there are still aftershocks. Others simply cried as they looked at ruined remains.
Some residents of L’Aquila and the smaller towns surrounding it stood around piles of rubble, praying that relatives might be pulled out alive. Not many had their prayers answered, although was one “miracle” reported Tuesday night, a woman pulled out alive from a building that had collapsed around her. That was 42 hours after the jolt.
Italy is no stranger to earthquakes. One near Naples in 1980, slightly stronger than the one in L’Aquila, killed nearly 3,000 people. And deadly earthquakes rocked Umbria in 1997. The huge one was just over 100 years ago, 1908 in Sicily, in which an estimated 70,000 people lost their lives.
And yet, every time one hits, it’s a shock. Even with smaller tremors people go running out into the street, especially if they’ve ever experienced a serious quake before. They know the damage a quake can do.
L’Aquila, the “big” city in the Abruzzo region with a population of about 70,000, was the epicenter of the jolt, the smaller towns around it were actually harder hit.
I visited Onna, a relatively rural and poor place just a few miles outside of L’Aquila. It had about 400 residents before Monday, April 6. Now most of them are sleeping in cars around or in a temporary tent city that’s been put up near by.
But when Onna eventually rebuilds the two and three-storey homes that came crashing down so quickly, it will be short 40 residents. One-tenth of the population didn’t make it out in time. Onna was literally decimated.
While Onna is not especially beautiful, the panorama is lovely, with snow-capped mountains rising just a few miles away. The largest is called “Gran Sasso” or the Big Rock. In the summer, when there’s no snow, you can see just how rugged it is.
It’s tough terrain that been home for centuries to tough people. One big quake won’t scare them away.