We headed to Jerusalem’s Old City for what’s supposed to be the most somber day in the Christian calendar, where thousands of Christians from around the world are retracing Jesus’ footsteps. They walk what’s known as the Via Dolorosa ( the Way of Sorrow) which is the path Jesus walked carrying the cross on the way to being crucified. We spoke to a family from New Mexico who said they can’t even explain how incredible it is to be here for Easter weekend.

Some Christians fast on Good Friday. But we were so hungry after spending all morning in the heat. Cameraman Dudi suggested we head to “Ikermawi” for hummus.

If we wrote a travel guide for Jerusalem … Ikermawi would be listed under “Best Place for Hummus.” It’s right outside Damascus Gate in the Old City.

The owner, Muhammed, took over the store from his father years ago. A pint of hummus costs a little more than $3 (13 shakels). He says it’s the most expensive hummus in Jerusalem. But I say it’s worth it.

He brings me a small dish of hummus topped with chickpeas, foul (like refried beans), olive oil, lemon juice, parsley.

Muhammed says if you buy a pint, it’s only good for 24 hrs. Apparently the combination of lemon juice, parsley, and fresh garlic only keeps for one day.

His restaurant is the size of a walk-in closet. There are only 3 tables outside. Muhammed says you can see the world from the front of his store.

There are tourists, locals, police, he even says sometimes drug dealers do exchanges nearby … all of this taking place outside the historic Old City walls.